Surat: Even as the global diamond market shows signs of recovery, Surat — the world’s largest diamond cutting and polishing hub — is hoping for better business. But the very foundation of the industry, its artisans, is under severe strain as wages plummet. Wages for diamond artisans have dropped by 50% to 75%, as they shift from polishing natural diamonds to lab-grown diamonds (LGDs). With insufficient work in natural stones, artisans are compelled to take up LGD polishing. By one estimate, about 800,000 workers are employed in diamond manufacturing in Surat. India’s gem and jewellery exports in 2024-25 stood at $28.5 billion. Of this, cut and polished natural diamonds accounted for $13.2 billion, while polished LGD exports were $1.2 billion. Almost all of this production came from Surat. Kishore Solanki, 50, has been polishing diamonds for 35 years. An expert in the “VG Good” cut, he once earned Rs 150 per carat for natural diamonds. Today, he makes Rs 50 per carat for LGDs. “My monthly earnings dropped to less than half in just one year since I started working in LGDs. I have no options or property in my native place, so I can’t return, and at this age, I cannot start a new job,” said Solanki, who is from Junagadh district. “In good business years, the increase in wages does not match growth, but in slowdowns, the wage cut is massive every time. No new workers are coming to the industry. There should be a policy related to wages for diamond artisans for the survival of the industry,” said Bhavesh Tank, vice-president, Diamond Worker Union Gujarat. Mukesh Palsana, 48, with over 31 years of experience, says his family’s lifestyle has completely changed. He began LGD polishing a year ago but is seeking work in natural diamonds. “I used to get over Rs 1,200 per carat in natural diamonds, but now I get less than Rs 500 for the same type of polishing work. Furthermore, there is not enough work and there are 12 days off a month,” said Palsana, who is from Amreli district. For diamond units, managing costs has become a challenge. Vijay Jasani, who has run a natural diamond polishing unit for 20 years, started LGD polishing to keep his business afloat. He does job work after sourcing rough stones from leading manufacturers. His 12 employees now earn Rs 350 per carat, down from Rs 1,200 earlier. “Job work units have very thin margins now, and wages have fallen significantly. The unit offers us tight rates for LGDs, and we must get it polished within that amount. Job work units and diamond artisans have no option but to keep working at these rates,” said Jasani.
